From Puglia. This dish looks fairly impressive, but is in fact quite easy to do. Spaghetti or linguine is mixed with seafood, and baked in the oven. The pasta absorbs the flavours from the seafood and the sauce is concentrated wonderfully. I had this dish at a restaurant near here “Zia Teresa” in Torre a Mare a while back. They served it using foil packets, but some people use greaseproof paper. Make one large package, or as I prerfer, one package per person. The recipe is really just a guide. The seafood is different from chef to chef and from day to day, depending on what is available. Include some kind of mollusc, like mussels or clams, something from the squid family, like calamari or octopus and something from the prawn family like prawns, scampi and shrimps. Some people also include a little fish, about 200 g, such as red mullet, sea bream or bass. Serves 4.
350 g spaghetti
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and bruised
1 kg of fresh tomatoes
200 g unpeeled raw prawns/shrimps
350 g clams (vongole veraci)
500 g mussels
200 g baby octopus or baby squid
A large sprig of fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
2 chillis (optional, use the chillis which you are used to. It is usually made quite mild here)
Dry white wine
Wash the mussels and clams under cold running water and pull the beards off. Put them into a large pan along with a clove of garlic, the parsley and half a glass of wine. Put on a high heat until all the shellfish are open. Remove most of them from the shells (you leave a few whole for garnish, if you like) and reserve the cooking liquid, strained if need be.
Blanch the tomatoes for a few seconds in boiling water, and then peel and deseed them. Roughly chop.
Heat about 4 tablespoons of oil in a large pan with the remaining 2 cloves of garlic. When they have browned, remove them from the oil. Add the octopus or squid, and cook over a medium heat for about 5 minutes.
Add the tomatoes and cook for a further 5 minutes. Add the cooking liquid from the shell-fish and the chopped chillis (leave them whole if you want to remove them at the end of cooking) and cook for a further 5 minutes. Add the unpeeled prawns and cook for a further 5 minutes. If you’d prefer to peel the prawns you can, but you’ll be losing quite a lot of flavour.
Cook the pasta about half the time recommended time on the packet. Drain and mix with the sauce.
Use a large square of kitchen foil, or 4 smaller ones for individual portions. Bring all 4 sides up and pinch together the corners, so you have a sort of foil “basket”. Fill each pouch with the pasta and fold over the top to close. Dont close them too tightly, leave some room. Bake in an oven preheated to 200°c for about 10 minutes.
Unwrap the package or packages at the table and have some finger bowls and napkins handy.
From Puglia. Pettole are sweet or savoury doughnuts. In the region of Campania , and I believe the US, they are known as zeppole. Here in Puglia, zeppole refers to a cake traditionally eaten on St Joseph’s day. They are called pettole here in Puglia and some regions of Basilicata. They are traditionally eaten on St Martin’s day in Lecce (Nov 11), St Cecilia’s day in Taranto (Nov 22), Around the immaculate conception on the 7th and 8th of December in Brindisi, and Christmas Eve in Foggia. They are generally eaten during the Christmas period throughout the region. They can be prepared in two ways, sweet or savoury. The savoury version can be plain, or contain other ingredients, such as olives, cooked cauliflower, salt cod , sundried tomatoes and anchovies. The sweet versions are dredged in sugar and/or dipped in vincotto a sweet, concentrated grape juice produced in Puglia. Honey or jam are also common if you can’t find vincotto.
375 ml warm water
500 g oo flour
Half a block of fresh yeast or 3½ g dried
2 tsp of salt
Oil for deep frying
For the savoury version:- 10 olives, stoned and sliced into rings. Use black or green or a mixture of both.
For the sweet version:- Granulated sugar, vincotto or honey.
Dissolve the yeast in the water. Mix together the water and flour. Add the salt at the end of mixing. You should have a very wet dough. If you are making the savoury version, stir in the olives.
Pettole mixed dough
Cover with cling film and leave in a warm place to rise for about 2 hours.
Pettole ready to cook
Wet your hands and scoop up about a tablespoon of dough and deep fry until it is lightly brown. You will need to turn them halfway through cooking. Drain on kitchen paper.
If you are making the sweet version, dredge each pettole in sugar and serve with a dish of vincotto or honey to dip them in.
From Puglia. This is a puglian version of the more well known Sicilian dish arancini. It is very simple to make however. There are versions that use other chesses and cured meats, but this one uses the easily available (abroad I mean) salami, ham and mozzarella. Serves at least 6 as an antipasto.
400g risotto rice
100g sliced salami (Milanese or similar)
100g sliced cooked ham
200g mozzarella cut into small cubes
40g grated parmesan
1 tsp salt
A pinch of pepper
Oil for frying
Rice croquettes ingredients
Boil the rice in plenty of salted water until done, about 10 minutes. Drain and add the butter. You could substitute vegetable stock for the water if you prefer. Allow to cool completely. You can prepare it the day before if you like.
Roughly chop the salami and ham. Combine with the rice, the mozzarella, the parmesan. Season with salt and pepper and finally add the eggs and mix well.
Rice croquettes formed
Form the mixture into cigar shapes, about 50g each. I find it easiest to use my hands.
Rice croquettes ready to fry
Coat them in breadcrumbs and deep fry them in hot oil until golden.
From Puglia. This is another very simple recipe that I cook a lot when green beans are in season. The pictures have been sitting on my computer for a while, so they are no longer in season, but should be fairly easy to get. The recipe uses ricotta marzottica or dura, which is hard to get outside Italy. The best substitute is grana or parmesan. Don’t use regular ricotta, it’s a different thing completely. The beans are cooked for quite a long time and you might consider them to be overcooked, but it works well with the pasta. If you prefer, you could add the beans along with the spaghetti.Serves 4.
Fave e cicorie. This is one of the most traditional and most loved dishes from Puglia. The recipe varies from town to town and even from family to family. Many thanks to Grazia from Altamura for her recipe. I don’t know if ‘wild’ chicory is available outside Italy, but if you can find it, this dish is well worth trying.
Crema al mascarpone. This is a Pugliese take on tiramisu. I don’t often make dessert, so I think I need a bit of practice getting it to ‘look pretty’ 🙂 It tasted nice though. A good way to use up all that leftover chocolate after Easter. Serves 4
mascapone cream ingredients
6 tablespoons sugar
100 grams mascarpone cheese
50 grams dark chocolate
4 ladyfinger biscuits
Remove the mascarpone from the fridge and allow it to come to room temperature.
Soak the biscuits in the coffee and put them in a dish which is just big enough to take them in a single layer.
Separate the eggs and beat the yolk together with the sugar until it is well incorporated.
Beat the egg white until it forms stiff peaks
Fold the egg white into the yolk/sugar mixture.
Beat the mascarpone until it’s smooth and then fold it into the egg mix. Divide the mixture into 2 equal portions.
Melt the chocolate in a bain-marie and fold into one portion of the mascarpone mixture.
Cover the biscuit first with a layer of the plain mascarpone and then with the chocolate.
Refrigerate for a couple of hours. Remove from the fridge 10-15 minutes before serving
Sgombri All’aceto. From Puglia. Mackerel is a very cheap and tasty fish. It is readily available and stocks are ample. There is a campaign at the moment to get the British to eat more, especially in chip shops Fish Fight Here in Bari there is no such aversion. This is a very simple recipe, but you must use very fresh mackerel. The blanching should be very brief, be careful not to overcook. The traditional way to time the cooking is to recite the pater noster or Lord’s prayer.
fresh mackerel, cleaned and filleted
white wine vinegar
garlic, finely chopped
fresh mint, finely chopped
Mackerel in vinegar ingredients
Blanche the mackerel fillets for a few seconds in boiling, salted water. I’ll start you off. “Our Father… ” 🙂
Put the fillets into a non-metallic dish and cover with vinegar.
Leave to marinate for an hour.
Remove the mackerel from the vinegar and transfer to a serving plate.
Dress with olive oil, garlic and mint.
Note: If you don’t want to eat the mackerel immediately, they will keep for a while in the fridge if you cover them with olive oil.
This is another local Pugliese classic. Be careful not to overcook the cauliflower as the slightly crunchy texture is very important. The original recipe included 2 tablespoons of olive oil, but I thought the lardo provided enough fat. Feel free to re-add it though. Next time I will probably halve the amount of lardo and use 1 tablespoon of olive oil. If you want to know exactly what lardo is, follow this link. Serves 4
orecchiette with cauliflower ingredients
400 g orecchiette
1 medium cauliflower — separated into small florets